Crème Anglaise Ice Cream with Plum Ribbon

Compote first. Combine the plums (600 g), granulated sugar (120 g½ cup + 1 tbsp), lemon juice (20 g4 tsp) and the slivovitz, if using. Simmer over medium heat, stirring, until the plums break down and the mixture is thick and glossy, and a spoon dragged across the bottom leaves a brief trail. Reduce it further than feels necessary; a loose compote bleeds and ices up. Cool completely, then chill. It should mound on a spoon.

Infuse the base. Put the cream (480 ml2 cups), milk (480 ml2 cups), salt (1.5 g¼ tsp), the vanilla seeds and pods, and half the granulated sugar (175 g¾ cup + 2 tbsp) in a saucepan. Bring just to a simmer, take off the heat, cover and steep 20 minutes.

Make the custard. Whisk the egg yolks (7) with the rest of the sugar. Rewarm the dairy and ladle it slowly into the yolks, whisking. Return it all to the pan and cook over medium-low heat to 77–82°C (170–180°F), until it coats a spoon. Take it off right at 82°C, since it drifts up on its own, and don't let it pass 83°C.

Strain and chill. Strain out the vanilla pods. Chill thoroughly, ideally overnight.

Churn to soft-serve consistency.

Swirl. Layer the ice cream into a container, dolloping cold compote between the layers. Drag a knife or skewer through 2 or 3 times for ribbons. Overmix and you get uniform pink instead of streaks.

Harden at least 4 hours before scooping.